Transfixed by the northern lights at Blachford Lodge
The story behind one traveler’s experience of the aurora borealis at this remarkable wilderness lodge in the Northwest Territories.
"I looked up and the sky was dazzling with the northern lights. I swear I could hear them singing as they danced above me."
Crunch, crunch. The sound of packed snow echoed around me as I made my way with my mug of hot coffee down the steps onto the frozen lake. Laughter and the dim glow from the main lodge faded behind me. After a perfect day of hiking to the Secret Lookout and snowshoeing among the pine trees, I'd filled my belly with a delightful home-cooked dinner and put my feet up with a good book. Feeling re-energized, I'd looked out the lodge window to see the glow of the aurora borealis in the distance. Now was a perfect time to get suited up in my cozy rented cold-weather gear and head out onto the sparkling frozen lake.
I had been taught the past two nights how to set up my camera, and this, I thought to myself, was the perfect chance to try it out on my own! Using one of the lodge's tripods, I secured my camera and played with the settings as I'd been shown. A big sip of coffee warmed up my insides as Mother Nature really started to put on a show.
Quick facts
The experience at Blachford Lodge
I found myself in the midst of an incredible, idyllic wilderness, where I was far away from daily life distractions and chaos. No cell phone, no internet. This is how I felt on my last night at Blachford Lodge, 60 miles away from Yellowknife. The last two days, I had an amazing time relaxing and connecting with my sisters. While life, jobs, families and distance may have us far apart, it didn't take us long to reconnect in the relaxed, easy atmosphere. Our trip was one that we had long thought about, and finally the perfect opportunity had come up. We booked our three-night stay and winter-clothing rental and headed up north.
The aurora stretches across the sky above Blachford Lake Lodge, seen from the frozen lake below. Credit: Jean Philippe
What is it like out on the frozen lake?
While I stood alone on the lake, the sounds of my sisters and new-found friends laughing in the hot tub made me smile to myself. I looked up and the sky was alive with the northern lights. I swear I could hear them singing as they danced and dazzled above me. Shifting and swirling, they changed from green to purple and what felt like every color in between. I clicked a few pictures and then forgot the camera and just watched. This was more than I had ever imagined.
Guests warm up fireside as the aurora unfolds overhead at Blachford Lake Lodge. Credit: Anna Krizova
Bonfire on the ice
My siblings and new friends joined me on the lake. Right beside the ice rink, we lit a bonfire. And nearby, the igloo we built yesterday was glowing, illuminated by a small flashlight inside. I felt at peace and marveled at what a little bit of relaxation, reconnection to nature and northern hospitality can achieve.
Finally, after what seemed like hours, the aurora began to dim so we all headed back up to the main lodge, where a large plate of home-baked cookies greeted us. What a perfect vacation, I thought to myself, as, cookie in hand, I headed slowly up the hand-crafted wooden stairs to my room. In no world could we have chosen a better place.
A lit teepee and a headlamp beam add warm light to a night of green aurora overhead. Credit: Kevin Zou
Plan your visit
Blachford Lodge is located just about 60 miles east of Yellowknife and is open for two main aurora-viewing seasons each year (one being Christmas until mid-April, the other being mid-August through mid-October). All-inclusive packages are priced from Yellowknife in Canadian dollars. Packages include the flightseeing flight to/from the lodge, all meals and snacks, accommodation (cabin or lodge), all seasonal activities, guides, handicraft workshops, fishing, aurora-photography hints and tips, and pre-departure information. Optional add-ons, like cold-weather gear rental, are available.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Blachford Lodge?
The lodge is fly-in only, accessible via a 20-minute bushplane flight from Yellowknife. Arctic Kingdom arranges all transfers once you arrive in Yellowknife. In summer, planes land on floats; in winter, they arrive on skis directly on the frozen lake.
When is the best time to see the northern lights at Blachford Lodge?
Blachford offers two main aurora viewing seasons: Christmas through mid-April and mid-August through mid-October. The remote, off-grid setting away from city light pollution maximizes viewing conditions.
What is included in a Blachford Lodge package?
All-inclusive packages cover the flightseeing transfer to/from the lodge, all meals and snacks, accommodation (lodge room or cabin), all seasonal guided activities, handicraft workshops, fishing, aurora photography tips, and pre-departure information. Optional add-ons, like cold-weather gear rental, are available.
Do I need to stay up all night to see the aurora?
No, the lodge offers a “northern lights wake-up service,” where staff will come and wake you if the aurora becomes active while you sleep.
What activities are available at Blachford Lodge?
Activities vary by season and include hiking, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, ice skating, ice fishing, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, sauna, hot tub, igloo building, handicraft workshops and guided wilderness excursions.
Is Blachford Lodge suitable for families or solo travelers?
Yes to both. The lodge has hosted families with young children, couples, friend groups and solo travelers. The relaxed, small-lodge atmosphere makes it easy to meet other guests.
Is there cell service or Wi-Fi at Blachford Lodge?
Cell service is not available. Complimentary Starlink satellite Wi-Fi is available, but guests are encouraged to embrace the digital detox as part of the experience.
Sources & registry
Blachford Lodge - arctickingdom.com/blachford-lodge