The Polar (Bear) Express: VIA Rail's Winnipeg to Churchill Train

There aren’t many vacations where you will be glad to be woken up at 2:30 am. But a trip aboard the northernmost sleeper train in all of North America is the exception. The train staff will wake you in the predawn hours if the northern lights are shining brightly in the sky, and invite you to head up to the glass-domed viewing car to watch. 

You’ll find yourself deep in Manitoba’s majestic boreal forests, the pristine lakes and frozen Arctic tundra catching the reflection of the glowing greens, pinks, and blues dancing in the sky. 

What lies at the end of your journey? A chance to see some of the world’s last wild polar bears.  

Welcome to VIA Rail's Winnipeg to Churchill train, the twice a week train that takes you straight into the Polar Bear Capital of the World. 

You might even call it the Polar Bear Express.

Quick Facts

Route: Winnipeg → Churchill

Distance: 1,694 km

Travel time: Approximately 45 hours

Departs Winnipeg: Tuesdays and Sundays at 12:05 p.m.

Departs Churchill: Thursdays and Saturdays at 8:30 p.m.

Class: Economy and Sleeper Plus. Meals are not included in either.

Longest stop: Thompson, approximately 5 hours.

Polar bear season: October–November

Northern lights peak: February–March, with a second peak in late August–September.

Booking: VIA Rail at viarail.ca or through your Churchill tour operator.

How to see the polar bears in Churchill

Churchill is known as the Polar Bear Capital of the World. Each fall (October and November), polar bears gather along the coast near Churchill and wait for sea ice to form. Once the sea is frozen, the bears head out on the ice where they hunt for seals all winter long. 

During the fall season, you can sign up for a Polar Bear Safari with one of Churchill’s many exceptional tour operators. You have the option of seeing the bears while riding in a tundra buggy, or, if you prefer, on foot. You can book a guided walking safari with Churchill Wild. All area guides are carefully trained to keep the experience safe, both for you and for the polar bears. 

How to get to Churchill, Manitoba

Churchill is a destination that offers all the romance and enchantment of the wild North. Whether you’re going for the polar bears, the northern lights, the beluga whales, or all three, Churchill's magic lies in its remoteness, sitting in the middle of vast, undisturbed wilderness. In fact, Churchill is so secluded there are only two ways to get there: by airplane or by train.

Flying to Churchill

The flight from Winnipeg to Churchill runs twice a week and is about 2.5 hours long, and is solely operated by Calm Air. The flight offers dramatic views of Manitoba’s boreal forest, where dense black spruce stretches around vast, glistening glacial lakes. If you choose to fly, flights often cost around $2,000-$3,000 CAD [$1,400-$2,100 USD] during peak polar bear season, and they fill up months in advance.

Taking the train to Churchill

Operated by VIA Rail Canada, you can also take the train to Churchill, a 1,694 km and 45-hour adventure that starts in Winnipeg and ends right in the heart of Churchill, Manitoba. The train runs twice a week, departing from Winnipeg on Tuesdays and Sundays at 12:05 pm and returning from Churchill on Thursdays and Saturdays at 8:30 pm.

Why should I take the train to Churchill?

If you’re short on time, flying to Churchill makes sense. But if you want to slow down and experience Manitoba’s forests and Arctic tundra up close, VIA Rail’s Winnipeg-to-Churchill train is the way to go.

The route north: Winnipeg, Thompson and Churchill 

While there are over 60 stops on the train route from Winnipeg to Churchill, the train takes only one extended break, in Thompson, a little over halfway through the journey. The train stops in Thompson for 5 hours, giving passengers the opportunity to catch some fresh air, stock up on snacks, and explore a city they would otherwise not get the chance to visit.

It’s also common for passengers, especially with young children, to drive to Thompson and catch the train from there. The Thompson to Churchill stretch of the route lasts about 16 hours.

Is Canada’s VIA Rail to Churchill scenic?

While people often consider the train for its affordability compared to flights, most passengers who take the train end up saying the 45-hour journey turns into part of the vacation itself. So what is it that you’ll actually see that makes this trip so popular among tourists?

Shortly after departing from Winnipeg, you’ll have escaped the wheat fields that define southern Manitoba, and for the next 24 hours, you’ll be riding through northern landscapes that feel like they're straight out of a storybook. Black spruce, jack pine, white birch and tamarack trees line the sides of the railway. At some point, you stop tracking the hours and get lost in the view. 

The Arctic phase of the journey begins upon departing the Thompson station. The train takes you through “the drunken forest," the terrain where the trees start to give way to the tundra. Here, the trees lean every which way, tilted by the permafrost that thaws and heaves beneath them, until eventually they disappear and you find yourself in the peaceful, quiet, frozen desert that is the Arctic tundra. 

Should I book an Economy or Sleeper Plus fare? 

Most passengers choose to book an Economy fare, the more affordable option. The economy seats do recline and there are footrests that pop out under the seats. You also have access to many of the train’s amenities, including checked bag service, dome car access, clubhouse car access, and food and beverages available for purchase. 

The Sleeper Plus cabins are available for travellers looking to have a little more privacy on their ride to Churchill. Perks of the Sleeper Plus ticket include private rooms with couches, foldable bunk beds, shower access, and baggage service.

Be aware that neither class includes meals, and you should prepare by packing food, snacks and beverages to avoid paying for them onboard. Many travellers bring instant noodles or similar snacks that only require hot water, which the crew is happy to provide free of charge.

Is Canada’s VIA Rail scenic?

Yes, and it’s usually the passengers' favorite part of the journey: the dome viewing area. On the upper level of the Skyline car, it offers sweeping, panoramic views that make you feel immersed in the dramatic landscapes rolling by. Depending on when you travel, you'll see lush green forests, snow-draped evergreens or warm autumn colours in every direction. But after dark, the dome car becomes your front row seat to Earth’s most spectacular show.

Somewhere deep in Manitoba's wilderness, with no city lights for hundreds of kilometers, the sky begins to move. Green ribbons fold into pink and violet overhead and ripple across the dome's clear curved ceiling. For the rest of the night, the only thing between you and the aurora is a sheet of glass.

Churchill is one of the best locations to watch the northern lights in the world, with frequent clear skies and minimal light pollution. Churchill’s peak northern lights viewing season is from February to March, although if you’re coming to see the polar bears in the fall, there’s a second peak of auroral activity in late August through September.

How do I book a train ticket to Churchill?

There are two ways to book a trip on the Hudson Bay Railway: book your seat on VIA Rail’s website or work with your Churchill tour operator to include it in your plans. Many tour operators handle every detail of your Churchill trip, leaving you free to simply enjoy the ride.

Santa won't be waiting to greet you in Churchill. But at the end of your 45 hour journey through Manitoba at its wildest and most beautiful, polar bears will be.

Call it a real-life Polar (Bear) Express. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How long is the train from Winnipeg to Churchill?

About 45 hours each way, covering 1,694 km. Most passengers will tell you the ride ends up being half the fun with views of the boreal forests and Arctic tundra.
 

Can you drive to Churchill?

No. No roads go all the way there. Your only options are the VIA rail or a Calm Air flight from Winnipeg. That said, plenty of families drive to Thompson and hop on the train there, which trims the rail portion down to about 16 hours.
 

When is the best time to see polar bears in Churchill?

October and November. That's when the bears gather along Hudson Bay waiting for the ice to freeze so they can head out and hunt seals all winter. Book your tundra buggy tour months ahead.
 

Can you see the northern lights from the train?

You can, and it's magic. The dome car on the upper level of the Skyline car gives you a clear curved ceiling and zero light pollution for hundreds of kilometers. Peak viewing season in Churchill runs February to March, with a second peak in late August and September.
 

Is food included on the train to Churchill?

No meals are included in either class. There are food and drinks for purchase onboard at an affordable price, but pack your own meals, beverages and snacks (and use the 5-hour Thompson stop to restock) to save money.