Your getaway guide to Cape Breton, Prince Edward Island and beyond

There's something about the very nature of islands and being surrounded by perpetually shifting waters that triggers our desire to hit the road to explore their inner depths and outer extremes. Two such places that are especially alluring in autumn, when the leaves put on a stellar show, are Prince Edward Island (PEI), Canada's smallest province, and Cape Breton Island, a rugged triangle that is part of Nova Scotia.

The ideal trip begins in Charlottetown, PEI's storybook capital, where candy-colored homes overlook the harbor and fishing boats supply the city's chowder houses. Follow the North Cape Coastal Drive through Summerside, Tyne Valley and Tignish, then catch the 75-minute ferry from Wood Island across the Northumberland Strait toward Cape Breton. Born of rising sea levels some 5,000 years ago, PEI charms with its red sandstone cliffs, quiet heritage roads and shellfish festivals that run through early October. Cape Breton offers drama, with the 186-mile Cabot Trail, as well as highland hikes that take you above the Atlantic Ocean and Bras d'Or Lake—the world's largest inland sea, cradled in a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Mi'kmaq, Acadian and Gaelic cultures animate both islands through Lennox Island's 12,000-year First Nations heritage or fiddle music at October's Celtic Colours International Festival in Cape Breton. Time your trip for peak foliage, and one drive can deliver both islands at their brightest.

Quick facts:

Suggested trip length
Three to five days

Starting point
Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

Ferry crossing
Wood Island to Caribou, 75 minutes across the Northumberland Strait

Cabot Trail length
186 miles

Confederation Trail length
279 miles, with more than 1,600 geocaches

Cape Breton Highlands National Park
26 hiking trails

Celtic Colours International Festival
Nine days in mid-October, 52 concerts, 250+ events (Cape Breton)

PEI Shellfish Festival
Mid-September (Charlottetown)

Fall Flavours Festival
September through early October (PEI)

World's largest inland sea 
Bras d'Or Lake, within a UNESCO biosphere reserve

World's largest fiddle
60 feet tall (Sydney)

Best time to visit 
Autumn for peak foliage

Charlottetown

This breathtaking region on Canada's east coast is ideal to explore on a three-to-five-day road trip. Start in Charlottetown, a great place to get a feel for the Island’s maritime heritage and community spirit.

There's a storybook charm to Charlottetown, capital of Prince Edward Island, which is slightly smaller than Delaware. Stately buildings and candy-colored homes overlook the waterfront, craft beer flows from the taps of the city's burgeoning breweries, and fishing boats laden with seafood form the foundation of the area's culinary scene. During the Prince Edward Island Shellfish Festival hosted here in mid-September, watch oyster-shucking contests, taste hearty seafood chowder and revel in an evening of live music, East Coast style. 

Every year, at the start of the festival, a one-night event known as Feast and Frolic brings innovation to the traditional dinner service. You’ll find chef-attended stations, seafood tables and all the charm of local producers. The festival draws in a plethora of international chefs for the Garland Canada International Chef Challenge, where chefs are put to the task of creating award-worthy shellfish dishes. 

Get another big bite of the province's bounty during Prince Edward Island Fall Flavours Food and Drink Festival, a celebration of fishers, farmers and artisans. It kicks off in September and runs until early October. Here, communities come together and showcase fresh local ingredients and their wonderful creations. 

In Charlottetown, history runs deep. Start at the Confederation Centre of the Arts, where you can learn the story of the landmark 1864 Charlottetown Conference. This conference is what led to the unification of the nation's British colonies into one federation, which became Canada on July 1, 1867. Strolling the city is an easygoing way to discover sites and scenes, but if you want to explore more, rent a bike and pedal around Charlottetown and beyond.

With so much to do and explore, consider making your base at the Great George Hotel. The award-winning downtown property offers boutique suites in 17 restored heritage buildings. Here you can find a plethora of amenities including 24-hour service, complimentary breakfast and walking tours.

Summerside (40 miles/60-minute drive)

Inhale the salty breeze in Summerside, where life is better by the sea. Don't want to drive? Take the Maritime Bus from Charlottetown. Throughout the historic streets and neighborhoods, you will find 24 parks to explore. Walk the 4-mile waterfront boardwalk to buzzing Spinnakers's Landing waterfront marketplace and gaze at vibrant murals along the way. Or take more time to meander the area's scenic heritage roads by bike or car to see the autumn leaves in their full glory. These narrow red clay roads offer panoramic views of the countryside and glimpses of rural life. 

This arts and cultural hub on the island's North Cape Coastal Drive satisfies the senses year-round, but early spring is all about sipping local brews. With 25+ breweries, local food, and tasting sessions, the Prince Edward Island Beer Festival offers an up-close look and taste of the art and craft of brewing beer on the island.

Another food-focused place is The Table in New London (16 miles from Summerside—about a half-hour’s drive). I The Table is a fully interactive immersion into PEI's culture, heritage and local food traditions. Located in an old rural church, the restaurant features only Canadian ingredients and wine, with a menu that changes every week. Anne of Green Gables fans will know that this village was also the birthplace of Lucy Maud Montgomery and served as her inspiration for the book. To see sites frequented by the book's titular character, you can tour the Green Gables Shore region. Make sure to take some time to check out the red sandstone cliffs and white sand beaches. 

Tyne Valley to Tignish

Delightful Tyne Valley village along the North Cape Coastal Drive (20 miles north of Summerside—about a 30-minute drive), offers a peek at PEI's farming and fishing communities. Daily life marches on here much like it did a century or two ago. See it first-hand by touring family-run Valley Pearl Oysters and learn how these bivalves are produced, while sampling some briny oysters. 

Continue southeast to Lennox Island (nine miles and a 14-minute drive) for an authentic Indigenous experience in the ancestral home of the Mi'kmaq First Nation. The First Nations lineage on the shores of Malpeque Bay dates back 12,000 years. In this community of 450 residents, you can try traditional food, discover medicinal plants or try quill work (a traditional Mi'kmaq art form).

Next, make your way to Tignish at the northern tip of PEI (39 miles and a 50-minute drive from Lennox Island), a town settled by Acadians in the late 1700s. Visit St. Simon and St. Jude Roman Catholic Church to see the 1882 organ with its staggering 1,118 pipes. While you’re there, check out other historic sites,  like the restored 1868 Tignish Heritage Inn & Gardens that was formerly an all-girls boarding school. 

Continue poking around the picturesque area, which is the start of the 279-mile Confederation Trail (PEI's portion of the TransCanada Trail), or loop back to Charlottetown (88 miles and a two-hour drive). The Confederation Trail was built on a decommissioned railway line, and if treasure hunting is your version of fun, you’ll find more than 1,600 geocaches along the route. 

Charlottetown to Cape Breton Island

It's an hour’s drive from Charlottetown to Wood Islands, where you'll take the ferry trip to Nova Scotia. On the way, visit the 1845 Point Prim Lighthouse, PEI's first and oldest structure of its kind. At Point Prim Chowderhouse, jaw-dropping views provide a perfect backdrop for a picnic or lunch of lobster rolls, chowder or their famous steamer pot. 

Before catching the ferry, tour the active Wood Island lighthouse, which has watched over Saco Bay since 1806. The lighthouse stands 42 feet tall, and has an interactive museum with 11 themed rooms. Once you step foot on the ferry, sailing the Northumberland Strait provides plenty of chill time before your push from Caribou. As you drive through Nova Scotia on the way to Cape Breton Island, you will pass through the Celtic-tinged communities of New Glasgow and Antigonish. New Glasgow was founded by Scottish immigrants and named in honor of Glasgow, Scotland. Drawing visitors from all over, the Glasgow Square Theatre hosts the annual Riverfront Music Jubilee, which has performances from some of the top Canadian talents. Celtic heritage also runs deep in the town of Antigonish, home to one of the most prestigious universities in Canada, Francis Xavier University. As you reach Aulds Cove (81 miles and a 90-minute drive from Caribou), you’ll cross the Strait of Canso to Cape Breton Island over a rock-filled causeway. 

Take a moment to ponder how many islands there are in the world. Then consider this: Travel + Leisure magazine has previously named Cape Breton Island the best island in Canada and ranked it 8th on the planet. When you arrive, you’ll know why. This rarified island enchants with an abundance of natural features, like its rugged coastline, towering sea cliffs, dramatic highlands and the world's largest inland sea called Bras d'Or Lake (French for "golden arm") within a UNESCO biosphere reserve. It's also a place where living cultures like the Mi'kmaq, Acadian and Gaelic, among others, come together to create unique traditions that play out in its vibrant communities.

While Cape Breton is always humming with music, activity amps up during the Celtic Colours International Festival that takes place in communities throughout the island in mid-October. The festival lasts nine days and spreads across the entire island with over 50 concerts and over 250 events. 

Inverness

From the causeway, Highway 19 skims the coastline, then travels inland through Glenville, home of the gorgeous Glenora Inn & Distillery, where you can discover the art of distilling and sample their award-winning whiskies. It's here that Glen Breton Rare 8 Year Old was crafted, becoming the first single-malt whisky produced in North America. Since the release of the Glen Breton Rare 8 Year Old, the distillery has gone on to release a number of flagship products, including the 15-year Old Cabot Cliffs Reserve, one of the favorites. Get a dose of Cape Breton culture in the Washback Pub daily during its ceilidh, a traditional social gathering involving storytelling and music. Then stay the night on the rambling property. From your log chalet perched on the mountainside, you might even spot a majestic bald eagle drifting above the trees, whose leaves have been transformed from green to gold, rust and red. 

From Glenville, it's just seven miles (a 12-minute drive) to Inverness, a beach community that hugs the shores of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Inverness is a golfer’s paradise, with two of the world's top 100 courses, Cabot Links and Cabot Cliffs. Nestled atop oceanside cliffs, these two courses have dramatic greens and incorporate the natural beachside dunes. 

For East Coast fare and local beer, stop in at Route 19 Brewing Tap & Grill, just down the street from Cabot Links Golf Course. Tour the brewery and sample flights of beer featuring selections such as Sea Ice, a double IPA, and Coal Dust, a hearty stout. Hungry? Sit on the patio overlooking the ocean with your pint, and share some delicious dishes like brewery beer-battered onion rings and fresh snow crab. 

Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Continue north to Margaree Forks (16 miles and a 22-minute drive from Inverness) and then you'll be driving on the fabled Cabot Trail, which circles a swath of the island for 186 miles. Enjoy the solitude of nature with a 45-minute in-and-out hike to Egypt Falls in the South West Margaree area. About 20 miles north (a half-hour drive), the fishing village of Cheticamp is an ideal place to discover local crafts (it's part of the Cabot Trail Artisans Loop) and experience Acadian and Celtic culture. Check out a performance of Cheticamp-style step dancing during the Celtic Colours Festival.

Get deep into nature at Cape Breton Highlands National Park, which features 26 hiking trails, beaches, waterfalls, campgrounds, and sublime views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of St. Lawrence—you might even spot whales in the distance. There are easy walks, like Green Cove, which takes a mere 10 minutes to reach a granite headland on the sea. Aspy is more of a challenge, but you'll find yourself in the Acadian forest, surrounded by red oaks and serenaded by the hoot of owls.. For more inspiration, take part in the Hike the Highlands Festival, which runs over seven days in mid-September through regions of Cape Breton Island. This festival features guided hikes, evening activities and hiker distance awards.

Sydney

On the southeastern edge of Cape Breton Highlands National Park and along the Cabot Trail sits a cluster of five beach communities called Ingonish. From start to finish, these communities only cover about 10 miles. To truly experience this island, you need to get out on the water. Take a whale-watching excursion off Cape Smokey to see mammals such as dolphins, porpoises, whales and seals. And if you want to see puffins nesting in the Atlantic, take an hour-and-a-half detour 42 miles south to Englishtown for another waterbound adventure before heading east to Sydney.

The island's largest urban center, the oceanside city of Sydney is home to  the world's largest fiddle at 60 feet high! It holds court in front of the Joan Harriss Cruise Pavilion, serving as a giant reminder of the area's roots in the traditions and music of the Celtic community. In fact, many artists make their homes in the community, and you can see their work at Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design. Pick up a piece of pottery or other handmade treasure. If you're feeling artsy yourself, take a class to learn to blow glass, creating your own memento to take home.

When you're ready to eat, make your way to Flavor H2O for hearty East Coast fare with a refined touch. Dine on seafood dishes like lobster risotto with fennel slaw and crab cakes with mango salsa, or check out vegan options like the sweet potato taco bowl. Take your time and sip some local beer while drinking in the oceanfront views.

For panoramas from above, you can't beat a helicopter tour of the island to see its full-on autumn splendor. Glide above the awe-inspiring landscape, then dream of what you experienced while you rest at A Boat to Sea Bed and Breakfast. This little patch of paradise on the waterfront features suites brimming with antiques, giving the whole home the feel of a museum, and free breakfast daily. The hotel is just a 15-minute walk to the downtown area and about four miles away from the Sydney Mines Heritage Museum and Fossil Centre. 

Discover more planning tips and tricks for Prince Edward Island at Tourism Prince Edward Island's website.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need for a Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton road trip?

Plan for three to five days. That gives you time to explore Charlottetown, follow the North Cape Coastal Drive through Summerside, Tyne Valley and Tignish, then cross by ferry to Cape Breton for the Cabot Trail, Inverness and Sydney.

How do you get from Prince Edward Island to Cape Breton Island?

Drive from Charlottetown to Wood Islands (about 40 miles) and take the 75-minute ferry across the Northumberland Strait to Caribou, Nova Scotia. From there, Highway 104 leads through New Glasgow and Antigonish before crossing the Strait of Canso onto Cape Breton Island at Aulds Cove.

When is the best time to visit Cape Breton and PEI?

Autumn. Peak foliage transforms both islands, and the season lines up with major events including the PEI Shellfish Festival in mid-September, Fall Flavours through early October and Cape Breton's Celtic Colours International Festival in mid-October.

How long is the Cabot Trail?

The Cabot Trail circles Cape Breton Island for 186 miles, passing through Cheticamp and Cape Breton Highlands National Park, home to 26 hiking trails ranging from the 10-minute Green Cove walk to the more challenging Aspy trail.

What is the Celtic Colours International Festival?

A nine-day celebration of Celtic music and culture held in communities across Cape Breton Island each mid-October, featuring 50+ concerts and more than 250 events, from fiddle performances to Cheticamp-style step dancing.

Sources

Tourism Prince Edward Island — tourismpei.com
Discover Charlottetown — discovercharlottetown.com
Cape Breton Island — cbisland.com
Nova Scotia Tourism — novascotia.com
Parks Canada, Cape Breton Highlands National Park — parks.canada.ca
Celtic Colours International Festival — celtic-colours.com
PEI Shellfish Festival — peishellfish.com
Fall Flavours Festival — fallflavours.ca
Northumberland Ferries — ferries.ca
Explore Summerside — exploresummerside.com
Town of Tignish — townoftignish.ca
Lennox Island First Nation — lennoxisland.com
Glenora Inn & Distillery — glenoradistillery.com
Cabot Links — cabotlinks.com
Hike the Highlands Festival — hikethehighlandsfestival.com
Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design — capebretoncraft.com